Seoul’s historic Tapgol Park, once a bustling hub for elderly residents playing traditional games like Janggi (Korean chess) and Baduk (Go), has seen a significant shift in its social dynamics over the past year. The outdoor spaces, previously crowded with game boards extending beyond the park’s boundaries, are now notably quieter. This transformation is largely due to the relocation of these popular activities to the nearby Nakwon Sangga, a commercial building that opened an indoor cultural center for seniors earlier this year.
Tapgol Park’s Shifting Landscape
On a sweltering July afternoon, with temperatures soaring to 33 degrees Celsius (91.4 degrees Fahrenheit), Tapgol Park presented a tranquil scene. Elderly visitors, fanning themselves vigorously, sought respite from the heat on benches and stone seats. Small groups engaged in quiet conversation, while others dozed. The only sounds breaking the stillness were the explanations of a tour guide to a handful of foreign visitors about the park’s historical significance. Kim, a 76-year-old who visits the park three to four times a week, noted the change. “The people who always used to gather here are gone,” he remarked. “Even though it’s hot, I still come often, but we talk about things other than the games now, and then we part ways.”
Just a five-minute walk away, the first floor of Nakwon Sangga offered a starkly different atmosphere. The ‘Tapgol Senior Culture Playground,’ established in February, was packed, with visitors struggling to find available seats. This indoor facility has become the new ‘hot spot’ for seniors, replacing the outdoor game tables that once spilled out of Tapgol Park. Unlike the open-air park, the indoor venue also serves as a much-needed air-conditioned refuge from the summer heat.
The Transition of Traditional Games
The Janggi and Baduk boards that had once occupied space even outside the park’s main gates disappeared entirely around July 31st of the previous year. While Tapgol Park’s usage regulations, established in 2002, included provisions against disruptive behavior, the enforcement and subsequent removal of the game tables began in earnest last year. Jongno District officials reported that pedestrian environments have improved since the enforcement, and the area is perceived as cleaner and more culturally preserved. The number of 112 emergency calls from the vicinity of Tapgol Park, which previously exceeded 1,000 annually, has also reportedly decreased significantly.
Seniors who previously enjoyed playing Baduk and Janggi have migrated to the new indoor
