A culinary journey led to an astonishing discovery: salt, a fundamental seasoning, can possess a distinct sweetness. This revelation came from an unlikely source – the personal chef to the Japanese Imperial family. The chef’s unique approach to salt, involving specific mineral compositions and preparation methods, unlocks a subtle sweetness that transforms dishes. This exploration into the nuanced world of salt began after years of rigorous culinary training and a deep dive into the intricacies of Japanese cuisine.
A Journey into High-End Japanese Cuisine
The narrative begins with a demanding schedule, balancing academic pursuits with late-night part-time work and recipe organization. This relentless pace was interrupted by a call from a restaurant owner, leading to an extraordinary opportunity: an introduction to the personal chef for the Japanese Emperor. The invitation was to visit Nagoya, a significant culinary hub.
Upon arrival in Nagoya, the setting was a hotel coffee shop where the chef, described as having a sharp, short hairstyle and a slender build, made an appearance. This individual, responsible for the Emperor’s culinary needs, also oversees eight high-end Japanese restaurants. These establishments, run by his three sons and daughter in Gifu Prefecture, are renowned for serving the finest Japanese cuisine. The narrative also mentions a prestigious restaurant near the former residence of Oda Nobunaga, a prominent figure from Japan’s Sengoku period, highlighting a deep historical connection to culinary excellence.
A Legacy of Culinary Mastery
The chef’s lineage traces back to the samurai era, with ancestors serving Oda Nobunaga. Currently, he manages around 30 disciples, operating his Japanese restaurants. The staff comprises seasoned professionals with decades of experience, some having worked in the culinary field for 20, 30, or even 40 years. This dedication underscores the commitment to preserving and advancing traditional Japanese culinary arts.
The journey continued to one of the chef’s restaurants in Gifu. The establishment was a revelation, meticulously preserving the ambiance of the Edo period, a time when samurai and lords frequented such establishments. This particular restaurant operates by accepting only one party per day, refusing service without a reservation. The pricing is dynamic, varying with each engagement. The minimum cost, when revealed, prompted a moment of reflection on the exclusivity and perceived value within the Korean context.
Adjacent to this was another ultra-high-end Japanese restaurant, also with stringent entry requirements, limiting service to only five parties daily. The culinary experience here begins at a minimum of 50,000 yen. In total, eight such exclusive Japanese restaurants are located in the area, each offering a unique gastronomic experience.
The Oda Nobunaga Connection and Exquisite Tableware
The meal was served at the first restaurant visited, using tableware that once belonged to Oda Nobunaga. The experience was so profound that it nearly caused an accident, highlighting the emotional impact of dining with such historical artifacts. The tableware, along with all other utensils and items, was supplied by the restaurant owner. The privilege of dining with dishes served in vessels used by Oda Nobunaga was an overwhelming experience.
Following the meal, guests were led to the basement kitchen. The scale and organization were astonishing. A connecting tunnel linked this kitchen to another Japanese restaurant, facilitating the movement of 13 chefs and kitchen staff. The head chef here had been working under the Imperial family’s chef for 25 years, a testament to the depth of experience and skill within the establishment.
A Glimpse into Culinary Infrastructure
The entire kitchen, including equipment, storage, and tableware, was a sight to behold, evoking significant envy. The narrative emphasizes that the tableware changes with every dish served. Furthermore, the tableware used during the meal was insured, underscoring its value and the meticulous care taken.
The head chef, referred to as ‘Boss Oyabun,’ instructed the preparation of eel. The journey then proceeded to another underground storage area, revealing an extensive collection of ingredients. This included dashi from various Japanese regions, dried bonito flakes, high-quality shiitake mushrooms, and an array of soy sauces, vinegars, seasonings, and spices, all meticulously organized. This pantry demonstrated an unparalleled commitment to sourcing the finest ingredients.
The Imperial Chef’s Role and a Unique Salt Discovery
It was clarified that the Imperial chef does not work at the Tokyo Imperial Palace daily. Instead, this individual serves the Imperial couple when they visit Aichi Prefecture, Gifu. This role positions the chef as a figure of immense national importance, akin to a national treasure.
Renowned as a legendary chef in Nagoya and Gifu, this individual maintains connections with thousands of culinary professionals across Japan. Upon being informed that the eel and seasonings were ready, the group proceeded to the kitchen.
The preparation of the eel involved a unique process. After initial treatment and filleting, a specially ordered salt was applied meticulously. This application triggered a chemical reaction that surprised observers, as it differed from methods used by other chefs. A taste of this salt revealed an unexpected sweetness.
Unveiling the Secret of Sweet Salt
This unique salt preparation was revealed to be a family secret. The chef explained the underlying principle: understanding the mineral components of salt, such as magnesium, calcium, potassium, chloride ions, sulfate salts, and iodide ions, and how these elements interact chemically. This scientific approach to seasoning is a hallmark of the chef’s philosophy.
The salt itself is sourced from an offshore island in Ise Bay, Japan. Here, the chef’s wife collects deep seawater, which is then evaporated solely by the sun and wind. This artisanal salt costs approximately 500 yen for 30 grams. Tasting the salt again, its fine texture and the way it coated the tongue, evoking the essence of the sea, was particularly pleasant.
For the eel dish, a fatty, high-quality specimen weighing over 800 grams was selected. The dashi used was a blend of kombu from Hidaka, Hokkaido, including both regular and true kombu, a specific type that required the chef to travel throughout Japan. This quest for the perfect ingredient involved visiting numerous locations, including Hiroshima, Kumamoto, Fukuoka, Nagasaki, Kagoshima, Sendai, Kobe, Hakodate, Wakayama, Toba, Shimonoseki, Moji, Tsushima Island, and Okinawa, in search of the finest eel.
From Japan to Korea: A Culinary Legacy Continues
This extensive search for the ideal eel culminated in a plan to write a book about eel upon returning to Korea. The project was set to collaborate with Hwang Ik-sang, a renowned helicopter and food photography specialist in Korea. The initial photoshoot took place at Jagalchi Fish Market in Busan, the author’s hometown.
Fresh eel, sourced from Jeju Island, arrived at the market. Photographer Hwang ascended the boat, equipped with three high-definition cameras, and began documenting the entire process, from the unloading of the fish to the sorting by size by approximately 100 eel workers. The dynamic and bustling environment of the market was captured in detail.
The author also visited numerous renowned eel restaurants across Korea, including those in Busan, Jeju, Pohang, Mokpo, Yeosu, Geoje, Jinju, Masan, Seogwipo, Udo, Samcheonpo, Jeonju, Gwangju, Suncheon, Namhae, Guryongpo, and Bangojin. After tasting and replicating dishes using their own methods, the author spent over 3,000 miles traveling for the eel book project.
The Foundational Role of Seasonings
During the years of culinary study in Japan, receiving instruction from hundreds of legendary chefs, the importance of fundamental seasonings was repeatedly emphasized. Topics covered included salt, vinegar, dashi, dried bonito flakes, sugar, soy sauce, and other essential ingredients. The curriculum also delved into ingredient preparation, anatomy, cooking techniques, and chemical reactions. The recurring theme, stressed relentlessly, was the critical role of salt.
This consistent emphasis on salt’s significance sparked a deep interest, leading to a dedicated exploration of its properties and potential. The journey into the world of salt, from its surprising sweetness to its foundational role in cuisine, continues to be a central focus of the author’s culinary endeavors.
