As autumn’s crisp air arrived, a scenic drive along the Sangju-Bonghwa Expressway led to the discovery of the Mongemok Sacred Site, a place steeped in the history of early Korean Catholicism. The journey itself offered a sensory prelude to the destination, with the changing foliage and the distinct rustling of leaves signaling the shift in seasons. The wind, more noticeable than anticipated, carried the dry, crisp sound of autumn leaves, a stark contrast to the softer rustle of just a week prior. The air felt drier, and fallen leaves carpeted the roadside, underscoring the palpable transition from summer’s intensity to autumn’s gentle embrace.
The Legacy of Father Choi Yang-eop
The Mongemok Sacred Site, recently established, commemorates the profound missionary work of Father Choi Yang-eop (1821-1861), the second Korean priest. Historical records indicate that he administered sacraments to believers in this very area. The Catholic Church officially designated Mongemok as a sacred site in 2016. In 2021, marking the 200th anniversary of Father Choi’s birth, a commemorative sanctuary, shaped like a pyramid, was erected.
Father Choi is revered as a “witness of sweat” and a “shepherd on the road.” Alongside Father Kim Dae-geon, the first Korean priest, and Father Choi Bang-je, he was selected as a seminarian by the Paris Foreign Missions Society. They received theological education in Macau. Father Kim Dae-geon, ordained in 1844, returned to Korea and engaged in missionary activities for less than a year before his arrest and subsequent martyrdom at the age of 25, living a life as intense as a burning flame.
In contrast, Father Choi Yang-eop, ordained in 1849, dedicated 12 years to traversing over 7,000 li annually. He visited approximately 120 villages inhabited by Catholics, known as ‘Gyouchon’ (敎友村), scattered across the nation. During the persecution era, Catholic followers sought refuge in the mountains, sustaining their faith by baking charcoal and firing pottery. These 120 Gyouchon were hidden deep within the remote mountain valleys. The paths to reach these communities were arduous, often requiring night travel through mountainous terrain to conduct pastoral duties. Yet, Father Choi could not turn away from the faithful who yearned for the sacraments, earning him the titles “witness of sweat” and “shepherd on the road.” While ministering to these villages, he translated prayer books and liturgical texts into Korean and meticulously documented the lives of martyrs. His life was a continuous cycle of overwork.
Mongemok: A Sanctuary Born from Persecution
The Mongemok Sacred Site in Boeun, Chungcheongbuk-do, stands as a testament to Father Choi Yang-eop’s tireless efforts. Nestled deep within the mountains of Guhyeonsan, Mongemok itself is a secluded village. The approach is flanked by high mountains and deep valleys, creating a sense of remoteness. Along the road leading to the sanctuary, diverse wildlife was observed, including bats and possibly weasels or civets, indicating the pristine nature of the environment. These animals, accustomed to minimal human contact, would dart into the woods as vehicles approached.
The designation of Mongemok as a sacred site stems from records in Father Choi Yang-eop’s letters to the Paris Foreign Missions Society. These documents detail the sacraments he administered to villagers in Mongemok, including individuals named Jo Bao-ro and Jeon Ya-go-bo. One poignant story recounts a fire that devastated a Gyouchon community that had taken refuge in the mountains to escape persecution. Despite losing everything, the villagers’ faith remained unshaken. Witnessing their steadfastness, Jo Bao-ro began to learn about faith from the villagers. Later, Father Choi Yang-eop visited this community and administered sacraments to Jo Bao-ro.
While these mountainous areas were ideal for practicing faith discreetly during the Joseon Dynasty, they are now dotted with pensions, owing to their picturesque beauty. Turning onto the road marked “Mongemok Sacred Site” after navigating winding mountain paths, the landscape suddenly opens up to a spacious area. The well-maintained grounds resemble the alpine meadows of the Swiss Alps, with the peaks of Guhyeonsan forming a majestic backdrop. Standing prominently against this natural canvas is the pyramid-shaped sanctuary.
Architectural Symbolism and Spiritual Resonance
The sanctuary, officially named the “Choi Yang-eop Thomas Priest Birth 200th Anniversary Commemorative Sanctuary,” is the work of architect Im Geun-bae (71), who also designed the “Lee Byeok Commemorative Sanctuary” in Pocheon, Gyeonggi-do. Architect Im interpreted the two prominent peaks of Guhyeonsan behind the sanctuary as a representation of “Father Kim Dae-geon and Father Choi Yang-eop standing shoulder to shoulder.” The sanctuary is situated on level ground between these peaks, where the mountain slopes begin to form a gentle incline.
The pyramid structure itself is octagonal. In Christianity, the number seven symbolizes perfection, and adding one signifies “perfection and a new beginning.” The architect explained this as representing the death of the old self through baptism and a rebirth with Christ. The sanctuary serves as a place to commemorate Father Choi Yang-eop’s administration of sacraments here, which led to its designation as a sacred site.
Even without delving into the specific symbolism, the pyramid-shaped sanctuary harmonizes beautifully with the surrounding natural landscape. Photographs of the sanctuary at night reveal the Milky Way arching over the pyramid, a sight made possible by the minimal light pollution in the area. The interior of the sanctuary is both solemn and serene. A skylight at the apex allows natural light to illuminate the interior, falling directly onto the “Baptismal Font.” Stained glass windows, positioned at eye level, depict scenes of Father Choi Yang-eop administering baptism to the faithful.
Water and Faith: Elements of the Sacred Site
Given that “baptism” is a key theme, water is thoughtfully integrated into the site’s design. A small collecting pool is situated in front of the sanctuary, gathering water flowing from the mountain and channeling it downwards. Below the sanctuary lies the “Baptismal Tunnel,” where the sound of trickling water can be heard. Water from the mountain flows through the sanctuary’s undercroft, passes through the Baptismal Tunnel, and continues into a stream. A small pond with floating lotus leaves has been created before the tunnel’s exit.
A statue stands in a corner of the spacious parking lot: a man wearing a hat. Closer inspection reveals it to be a statue of Father Choi Yang-eop, depicted carrying a bundle on his back and leaning on a walking stick, embodying the “shepherd on the road.” This statue was erected in August to commemorate the tenth anniversary of Mongemok’s designation as a sacred site. It mirrors a similar statue at another of Father Choi’s former mission sites, the Baeti Sacred Site in Jincheon, Chungcheongbuk-do.
Visitors often find it difficult to leave the sacred site, lingering to explore. Some climb the pine-covered hill in front of the sanctuary, while others sit on rocks in the terraced garden. Behind the sanctuary, a stream flows. Sitting by the stream, one can read a pamphlet detailing the sacred site, with informative text and photographs provided by Father Jeong Woong-mo, who studied church art and architecture. After a short while, parishioners emerge from the sanctuary, having completed Mass (held Tuesdays through Sundays at 11 AM). The priest often stands at the sanctuary’s entrance, blessing the arriving faithful with the laying on of hands.
The clear autumn sunlight illuminates the sanctuary, the priest, and the parishioners, creating a scene of profound peace and tranquility.
