The Art of Whiskey: A Master Blender’s Perspective
The world of whiskey is undergoing a transformation, one that some experts believe is leading to a homogenization of flavor. Sukhinder Singh, a renowned global whiskey collector and independent bottler, voices a growing concern: “Whiskey isn’t what it used to be.” He observes that while major distilleries are flooding the market with products boasting various cask finishes and calling them innovations, the complex, fruity notes characteristic of traditional whiskies are diminishing. The distinct personality of each distillery is also fading, he notes.
Singh, who co-founded The Whisky Exchange with his brother Razvi in 1999, has built one of the world’s largest online whiskey retailers. After selling the company to the French spirits group Pernod Ricard in 2021, he now leads Elixir Distillers, focusing on independent bottling and distillery operations. His ventures include the acquisition of the Tormore distillery in Speyside, Scotland, in 2022, and the construction of a new distillery, Portintruan, on the Isle of Islay. After a lifetime of selecting and evaluating others’ whiskies, Singh is now actively involved in creating his own.
A Collection Valued in the Millions
Singh’s personal collection boasts an impressive 20,000 bottles. Among them, the most valuable is a Macallan 1926. In a 2023 Sotheby’s auction in the UK, a single bottle of this vintage Macallan 1926 sold for approximately 36 billion Korean Won (roughly $2.7 million USD), setting a new world record for a bottle of whiskey at auction. Singh recently shared his insights during his first visit to Korea on the 13th.
“Perfection is Boring in Whiskey”
When asked about the definition of a great whiskey after experiencing countless rare bottlings, Singh stated:
“A great whiskey is subjective. What I enjoy might not be what you enjoy. However, there are standards. Some whiskies leave your palate clean after sipping, while others leave a lingering bitterness or a dry, rough sensation. I consider those flaws. Ultimately, a great whiskey must be balanced.”
He continued, “I don’t necessarily seek a perfect whiskey. A perfectly balanced spirit can be rather dull. A truly great whiskey leaves a memorable characteristic even after you’ve put the glass down. Some might have a distinct fruitiness that carries through, while others leave a pronounced herbal or nutty impression. Whiskies with such character are the ones that are long remembered. They are more interesting than overly smooth spirits.”
Reflecting on the industry’s focus, he commented, “These days, large distilleries and major brands prioritize efficiency and consistency.”
Singh elaborated, “Consistency is certainly valuable, especially for major brands. However, whiskey often becomes more interesting when it’s not perfectly uniform. Sometimes, unexpected variations in a batch can yield truly exceptional results.
The Character in Imperfection
“I once saw the malting data from a distillery,” Singh recounted. “The same distillery produced batches with peat levels of 5 parts per million (ppm) and others reaching 20 ppm. By today’s standards, this would be considered a quality control failure. Yet, those whiskies largely went into blends. Very few were bottled as single malts. Occasionally, independent bottlers would acquire small batches, and when tasted, they were unlike any other bottling from the same distillery. By today’s standards, these perceived flaws actually became the character of the whiskey. Such imperfections can create captivating spirits.”
(Note: ppm refers to the measure of peat intensity in whiskey. Variations in peat levels indicate inconsistencies in the smoking process of the barley. Modern large-scale distilleries have largely eliminated such discrepancies through automation, increasing efficiency but also reducing the chance of unique character emerging by chance.)
When asked about his preferred flavor profile, Singh replied, “Fruit. When I first started drinking whiskey, almost every whiskey had a fruity aroma. Whether it was an old Laphroaig, an old Adv-eek, or an old Bowmore, there was fruit. Even Islay whiskies weren’t just about smoke and peat; they had notes of ripe fruit. But that has gradually disappeared.”
On why this shift occurred, he explained, “The core elements of whiskey production have changed. The barley varietals have changed, favoring those with higher yields. Mashing processes are similar; the focus is on producing more. Malting times have shortened, distillation methods have accelerated, and cut points have been altered. Barley, mashing, malting time, and cut points – these four elements are fundamental to a whiskey’s taste. Changing even one can alter the spirit significantly. When all four change simultaneously, it becomes difficult to retain the aroma and character of traditional whiskies.”
The Trend Towards Sameness
Reflecting on his time managing The Whisky Exchange, Singh noted a growing trend of sameness in the industry.
“There were several reasons for selling,” Singh admitted with a smile. “The most straightforward reason was receiving an offer I couldn’t refuse. But concurrently, I felt the industry was becoming increasingly monotonous.
“Big brands continuously released new products, introducing diverse maturation periods and increasing prices. However, to my eyes, they seemed to emphasize packaging and storytelling over the intrinsic quality of the whiskey. New products kept coming, but when tasted, they all felt remarkably similar. They all moved towards sherry casks, finishing, and a generally heavier, more intense profile. I personally don’t favor that style.
“Today, brands talk constantly about innovation. Innovation, innovation, innovation. But this ‘innovation’ often boils down to cask finishing. Moving the spirit from one cask to another, then another. What’s amusing is that a whiskey matured entirely in a bourbon cask from start to finish is often superior to these ‘innovative’ finishes. At least, to my palate, it is.”
When asked what he finds most disappointing about contemporary whiskies, Singh stated, “There are fewer clean, fruity whiskies. I often ask people to name a fresh, fruity daily-drinking whiskey from a major brand. Most struggle to answer. I believe that in itself is telling.
“Twenty or twenty-five years ago, there were far more whiskies with a dominant fruity character aged in bourbon casks. Sherry influence was less common. Now, the aroma, color, and texture all lean towards a richer profile – heavier, sweeter, and with a stronger oak presence.
“Of course, for new consumers, this style might become the norm. I understand that. For those learning about whiskey today, intense sherry and strong cask influence might be considered ‘normal.’ This is why I carefully consider what I will create in the future. Nevertheless, I want to produce whiskies in my preferred style – spirits with a more classic direction.
“Naturally, replicating whiskies from the past exactly is impossible. The barley is different, the oak casks are different, and even the climate has changed. However, I believe we can get closer to that direction.”
A Tale of Two Collections
Regarding his extensive collection, Singh explained, “My collection is divided into two categories. One is the museum collection. These are whiskies I almost never touch. The majority are bottled before 2000; bottles from after 2000 constitute less than 5%. Essentially, I keep only one bottle of each special whiskey.
“In the past, I displayed this entire collection in the Whisky Exchange’s meeting room. Now, due to space constraints, only about 700 bottles are on display, with the rest stored in boxes. I need more space. I particularly favor whiskies from the 1960s and 1970s. I also have special bottles from independent bottlers.
“The museum collection is fundamentally untouched.”
When asked if the remainder constituted his drinking collection, he confirmed, “Yes, that’s the drinking collection. The whiskies I truly love, I don’t keep just one bottle. Some have two, some have six or more – all for drinking. This collection alone comprises nearly 20,000 bottles. Recently, due to space limitations, I’ve started organizing it.”
On the most expensive bottle in his collection, he stated, “In terms of value, it’s probably the Macallan 1926. The price has risen dramatically compared to the past. The market is completely different from when I first encountered it.”
When pressed to name a single whiskey as the best in taste, Singh demurred, “That’s an unanswerable question. Even selecting 50 great whiskies would be difficult. Whiskey appears completely different depending on the context and the pairing.
50-Year-Old Whiskey Needs the Right Setting
Singh has tasted many of the world’s most expensive whiskies. He shared his thoughts on whether their high price tag is justified.
“The order in which you taste aged whiskies is crucial. You cannot start with a 50-year-old whiskey. That’s the biggest mistake. You must progress gradually from younger whiskies. Only then can an aged whiskey truly shine.
“I recently attended a tasting featuring six different whiskies aged over 50 years. All were recently bottled. However, I found the composition itself to be a significant flaw. People instinctively compare. If you have six such drams, you inevitably focus on which is the best. Consequently, some whiskies appear to fall short in comparison.
“But if that same 50-year-old whiskey, the least impressive of the group, were placed in a different lineup, it might appear as the finest spirit. Tasting is about context. Even a great whiskey cannot showcase its true potential in the wrong setting.”
Taking Over Tormore Distillery
Regarding the acquisition of Tormore in 2022, Singh explained his reasoning.
“It was about the whiskey itself. If I hadn’t liked the Tormore spirit, I would never have bought it. Tormore is a distillery with few independent bottlings. It’s difficult to encounter them often. Instead, I looked at the distillery’s design. Tormore’s stills are fitted with purifiers. These are devices designed to preserve fruity notes in the spirit.
“I personally sampled the stock before purchasing. I loved it. Tormore’s spirit is fundamentally centered around peach and pear, with a slightly creamy texture. It finishes with a subtle bitterness, like walnut husks, and a hint of oak. I truly enjoy that style.”
(Note: A purifier is a device in a still that returns some of the heavier compounds back into the distillation process, resulting in a lighter, more fruit-forward spirit.)
When asked about the first changes made after the acquisition, Singh detailed, “We focused on four key areas. First, we changed the barley varietal, selecting one that best enhances fruity notes rather than prioritizing yield. Second, we increased the malting time. It now averages around 70-75 hours. Third, we modified the yeast. We now use a blend of distilling and brewing yeast. Finally, we adjusted the cut points.
“This process has resulted in a Tormore with richer, more textured, and more vibrant fruit character. I don’t intend to change the fundamental Tormore style. It already possesses excellent qualities. My goal is simply to accentuate those strengths.”
On the rapid claims of “completed style” by new distilleries, Singh expressed skepticism:
“I don’t agree with that. Establishing a distillery’s style takes time. Claiming to have perfected your spirit in just a week is unbelievable. I believe it takes at least five years. You must observe how it evolves each year in the cask, ensure the direction is correct, and make minor adjustments as needed.”
Sherry Shouldn’t Dominate
When asked about how he sources sherry casks, Singh explained, “Most sherry casks on the market today are ‘seasoned’ casks. They haven’t truly held sherry for an extended period. We actively seek out genuine sherry butts. Sometimes, we even purchase oak and have casks made ourselves. We then send these casks to sherry producers, asking them to fill them with sherry. Once the sherry has matured, they take the sherry back, leaving us with the empty casks. We fill these with Tormore and Portintruan. We’ve been doing this for seven to eight years. It’s not a quick process.
“Bodega casks are those genuinely used for sherry maturation. ‘Seasoned’ casks, on the other hand, involve a shorter period of sherry contact used to impart flavor in the whiskey industry. True sherry casks may not impart as much color, but they deliver significant flavor. People are overly fixated on color. I don’t believe color is that important. Tormore is inherently an elegant, fruit-driven whiskey. If you use overly strong sherry in such a spirit, the distillery’s character is lost. Ultimately, only the sherry flavor remains. That’s not what I want. Sherry should be a supporting act, not the star; Tormore should be the star.”
The Final Judgment: Taste It
When asked how he wishes to be remembered – as a collector, bottler, or distiller – Singh replied, “I never seriously considered this question before. But now, I think differently. Perhaps Portintruan, the distillery we are building on Islay, will be our legacy. We designed and built it ourselves from the ground up.
“It’s also important to ensure the next generation continues this work. Ichiro Akuto in Japan did just that. He didn’t just succeed himself; he opened his doors to those wanting to build new distilleries, saying, ‘Wonderful, I will teach you.’ I want to do the same. Whiskey is not an industry that ends within the distillery. I hope the spaces we create become places where the next generation can learn and experience.”
