SAN FRANCISCO — Jeong Hwang-hah, the younger proprietor of Jilli SF, is bringing makgeolli — Korea’s centuries-old rice alcohol — to the guts of the Bay Space, bridging her background in tech with the rising recognition of Korean ingesting tradition in the US.
After spending years within the tech business as a person interplay designer for Airbnb and a number of other synthetic intelligence (AI) corporations, the 28-year-old made a shift to hospitality this 12 months to launch Jilli SF, a San Francisco outpost of the favored Korean-inspired bar in Los Angeles.
Her motivation was a deep love for Korean tradition and a imaginative and prescient to create a communal house for meals, drink and connection within the U.S.
“I need Jilli SF to be seen as a Korean trendy ‘suljib,’ however for everybody,” Jeong advised The Korea Instances. “I hope this place looks like a buddy’s residence — someplace you may drop by after work, even alone, and immediately really feel comfy. Acquainted, but new.”
After years designing interfaces and AI merchandise, Jeong felt every thing on-line was beginning to blur collectively and realized individuals have been craving for experiences that felt tangible and human.
“Persons are craving one thing actual — actual experiences, actual human connection, actual tales. That’s what we’re creating right here, in these small areas” she stated.
Her imaginative and prescient faucets into the communal spirit of Seoul’s ingesting tradition, repackaged for a West Coast viewers longing for authenticity, discovery and a style of Korea that goes past Okay-pop and barbecue.
The unique Jilli (which means “reality” in Korean) in Los Angeles is branded as a “trendy sool jib,” a recent tackle the standard Korean ingesting den. However when CEO Dustin Donghyuk Lee approached Jeong about launching a San Francisco location, she shifted the emphasis towards craft makgeolli and promoted the spot as a “makgeolli tapas bar.”
“We’ve got completely different focusing on audiences. Jilli LA is in Koreatown, the place it already brings in individuals within the neighborhood, whereas the San Francisco one is in the midst of nowhere, the place it needs to be a vacation spot spot (and) the place individuals have to Uber from and to,” she defined.
Prospects dine on the Korean-inspired makgeolli and tapas bar, Jilli SF. Courtesy of JIlli SF
Pushing makgeolli mainstream
Tucked in San Francisco’s stylish Mission District, Jilli SF has shortly grow to be one of many metropolis’s most desired reservations, with the comfortable nook house totally booked most nights since its June opening. The menu expands on its LA counterpart, presently providing 18 forms of craft makgeolli paired with Korean-inspired small plates.
Jeong stated the choice to highlight makgeolli was formed by each her ardour and the Bay Space’s tradition.
“Youthful individuals as we speak aren’t ingesting simply to get drunk. They care about well being and new experiences,” she stated. “That’s why I wished to focus extra on makgeolli. Not many individuals in San Francisco have tried it and even heard of it, so I believed it could be significant to introduce this conventional Korean drink in a contemporary, approachable setting for a era that’s keen to find one thing new.”
She particularly enjoys watching company uncover the flippantly candy, cloudy rice drink for the primary time, paired with small plates with a contemporary Korean aptitude.
“For me, it’s actually about seeing individuals pleased,” she stated, laughing. “Positive, it’s loads of work, however when somebody lights up over a chunk of one thing scrumptious and says, ‘That is superb, you need to strive it!’ — that pleasure is contagious. I didn’t create their happiness, however every thing right here — the music, the decor, each tiny element — was designed with care. When somebody leaves smiling, which means the world to me.”
Jilli’s bottle listing showcases a curated choice from craft makgeolli brewers within the U.S., that includes Brooklyn’s Hana Makgeolli, alongside Southern California producers equivalent to Sang Makgeolli and Nomi Doga.
Working at Jilli SF, Jeong is regularly struck by how shortly curiosity within the Korean rice alcohol is increasing.
“It’s unbelievable. Simply final week, I hosted a makgeolli brewers’ meet-up — about 10 of us gathered, every bringing our personal home made batches to share. Other than one visitor, everybody there was American,” she stated.
“One particular person advised me, ‘I first examine makgeolli in a journey e-book. I had by no means tasted it (and) couldn’t purchase it wherever, so I made a decision to make it myself.’ Others stated they found it whereas visiting Korea and began brewing to recreate that taste again residence. There’s this excellent, rising neighborhood of lovers.”
Jilli SF’s Korean-inspired tapas bites, like wagyu yukhoe (uncooked beef) with seaweed aioli, middle; perilla oil noodles, left; and honey butter chips, pair effectively with makgeolli. Courtesy of Jilli SF
Jeong’s entry into the market aligns with a surge in recognition for the drink in North America. The U.S. is the second-largest export marketplace for makgeolli, after Japan. Exports to the U.S. grew by 7.9 %, from $2.56 million in 2022 to $2.76 million in 2023.
Makgeolli gross sales within the U.S. reached an estimated $105.7 million in 2024, reflecting a wave of recent curiosity and appreciation amongst American drinkers. The quantity is projected to greater than double by 2035, rising at an estimated annual price of 6.97 %, based on a market report by Spherical Insights & Consulting.
The drink’s rising recognition stems from its fame as a health-forward, rice-based beverage wealthy in lactic acid micro organism, alongside rising curiosity in low-alcohol drinks and persevering with curiosity in Korean tradition.
When requested about makgeolli’s enchantment, Jeong stated the magic lies in the way it’s made.
“Fermentation is so fascinating as a result of relying on how lengthy you age it or what elements you utilize, the flavour fully adjustments. It’s arduous to recreate the very same style each time until you’re a business brewer and that unpredictability is enjoyable. Like, if I let it sit yet another day or add burdock tea, I get a completely distinctive burdock makgeolli,” she stated.
“You possibly can’t actually make wine at residence, however you can also make your personal fermented drink like this — that’s what makes it particular. I feel that’s why so many individuals begin brewing it at residence and finally take it business.”
Jilli x Nasung Glowing Makgeolli was co-developed by Jilli and Nasung, a brewery based mostly in Fullerton, Calif. / Courtesy of Jilli SF
Ingenious menu
To make Korea’s centuries-old brew extra accessible, Jilli SF affords a spread of playful, trendy codecs — from makgeolli flights and artisanal bottles to a inventive unfold of Korean-inspired tapas.
Jeong describes Jilli SF’s menu as “acquainted consolation with a Korean kick.” The makgeolli flight consists of 4 small pours, every with distinct flavors and hues that invite curious newcomers into the world of Korean rice alcohol.
The meals additionally has parts each acquainted and new. Jilli’s rigatoni alla vodka, a buyer favourite, takes the acquainted Italian pasta to a different degree by including kimchi to the sauce for a spicy kick.
“Persons are at all times amazed and amused by that. They already know what to anticipate from the dish, however the kimchi twist surprises them. It’s playful in the easiest way,” she stated.
One standout is the poutine, which replaces the standard gravy with a savory jjajang sauce, made with the fermented black soybean base from Korea’s beloved jjajang noodles. Served over fries, it’s a fusion of Korean-Chinese language and Canadian consolation meals.
One other favourite is pork jowl marinated in gochujang (fermented chili paste) and grilled over charcoal. Quite than the everyday Korean ssamjang sauce, it’s paired with a tomato-based ssamjang and a perilla leaf salsa verde, including a contact of California brightness with out shedding its Korean soul.
Different choices embrace honey butter chips, a nod to Korea’s cult-favorite snack, and fried hen glazed in a sweet-and-spicy sauce.
Jeong’s entrepreneurial goals embrace making Jilli SF a launchpad for much more formidable tasks.
“Sooner or later I’d like to construct a sprawling luxurious sauna — a spot in a high-rise the place individuals can mix yoga courses and meditation with sauna periods and simply really revive themselves. Opening a tea home is one other dream on my listing. There are such a lot of unbelievable issues in Korea, however nonetheless a lot that’s but to be found right here.”
