Seoul’s northeastern nook had stood out till just lately as one of many few areas of town to not develop into fully overrun with burger joints. For no matter cause, Western fare right here has but to catch on the best way it has in hip locales like Mangwon, Gangnam and Mullae. Older neighborhoods in Seongbuk and Jungnang districts are nonetheless predominantly lined with eateries serving native dishes. Nonetheless, one upstart diner goes towards the grain in hopes of reshaping the world’s culinary panorama.
Only a hop, skip and bounce from Anam Station on Seoul Metro Line 6 lies Puck’n Onion. This tidy, unassuming eatery, hidden in one of many quarter’s many winding alleys, has created fairly the thrill since opening its doorways in spring 2022.
So far as burger joints go, Puck’n Onion is an average-sized operation. It boasts an open idea eating space, ample seating and a back-of-house grill. The partitions are adorned with minimal ornament, and the entrance of the store is as primary as may be. Gimmicks aren’t paramount to the eating expertise right here.
I just lately paid my first go to within the midst of a day rush. As is the case with most Seoul sandwich saloons, lunch is their busiest time of day, so the prospect of securing a seat was considerably regarding. Nevertheless, as luck would have it, a happy couple was on their approach out as I got here by means of the door, leaving a desk vacant.
A fast perusal of their burger menu revealed a mere 4 choices. To some, this can be off-putting. Nevertheless, in my expertise, locations with restricted menus typically have every merchandise right down to an artwork and don’t really feel the necessity to mess with perfection.
The menu at Puck’n Onion / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
All orders at Puck’n Onion should be positioned on the counter, and it was there that I settled on their BBQ Double Burger. It set me again a mere 10,500 received, an absolute steal when you think about different joints all through town are charging twice that for similar-sized choices.
Whereas returning my card to my pockets, I acquired my first peek at proprietor and head chef Shim Jae-yong. He’s not solely the brainchild behind this complete operation, but in addition the person accountable for personally grilling each patty Puck’n Onion has ever served. He and I might converse postmeal, however for now, I used to be targeted on the duty at hand.
Inside minutes of assuming my seat, Shim’s masterpiece arrived, able to be smashed (pun supposed).
The overwhelming majority of meals reviewers will concede that first impressions are very important to their judgment. For me, style can salvage any meal’s lack of presentation, however I’ve no objections to a effectively put-together plate. So when my redolent and aesthetically pleasing sandwich was laid earlier than me, I knew I used to be in for a tasty expertise.
The bun halves had been fluffy but dense, with a crunchy exterior that encased a moist, chewy middle. They’d been griddle-toasted in a skinny layer of beef fats, leading to crisp faces and a ravishing brown ring across the circumferences.
Two slices of normal processed American cheese had been melted over the 2 all-beef patties. Nothing flashy about them, however they acquired the job completed.
The meat pucks had been ready smash-style — pressed with power, leading to first rate bun overhang, however nonetheless a substantial quantity of girth in the direction of the middle. The flaky edges made for a wonderfully uneven perimeter, and the heat-induced exterior cracked open when met with the slightest chunk power. Each had been expertly seasoned, had been totally cooked and contained simply the correct quantity of grease. There may be little or no that might have been completed to make these smash patties any higher.
An added layer of protein got here within the type of flawlessly griddled, thin-cut, chopped, Western-style bacon that had been strategically positioned all through the tower of meat. They had been fragrant, sapid and the salt content material allowed them to preside over the opposite components.
Two sauces tied the entire sandwich collectively: a zesty orange aioli and a candy and smoky conventional southern BBQ. The mayo-based dressing offered a flavorful kick that caught round even after every chunk had been swallowed, whereas the sticky BBQ supplied a honeyed sweetness that counterbalanced the lingering spice of the orange.
Indisputably, this was one of many sharpest burgers I’ve encountered within the metropolis. It wasn’t only a visible murals, it was downright luscious.
After devouring stated glory, I made my method to the again of the home to talk with the mastermind himself. As heavenly wafts of aromatic meat breezed by means of my hair, I requested Shim what impressed him to open Puck’n Onion. He instructed me, “After working for about 10 years as a menu developer at a significant home franchise firm, I felt the urge to create one thing of my very own utilizing the recipes I’m most assured in.”
Though Shim has by no means lived overseas, he has spent a substantial period of time touring. He feels that many Koreans are similar to him in that they need exploration of latest — and sometimes international — flavors. As he places it, “After the early 2000s wellness pattern, Korean palates began shifting towards bolder, extra stimulating flavors, partly influenced by abroad journey. Across the mid-2000s, we noticed the rise of Japanese-style fusion burgers — thick patties with Asian-inspired sauces — which finally gave method to extra local-style smash burgers. The smash burger pattern particularly caught on with younger adults and older generations who had lived or traveled overseas, serving to burgers develop into broadly accepted and liked in Korea.”
Whereas saying opening extra places of Puck’n Onion sooner or later is a chance, Shim he’s content material together with his present retailer for now. “We’re nonetheless a small and humble burger store, however we’re having a number of enjoyable operating it.”
Puck’n Onion / Courtesy of Zack Wilson
Puck’n Onion is positioned a couple of two-minute stroll from Exit 3 of Anam Station. It’s open Monday to Saturday from 11 a.m. to eight p.m. Observe @pucknonion on Instagram for extra data.
Zack Wilson has written for a number of publications in each Korea and Canada. His space of experience is hamburgers, having dined at greater than 250 privately owned burger outlets within the larger Seoul space.
